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Everybody knows that Alicia
isn't only a singer. She's also a great writer. She created NY Daily newspaper
column titled 'Notes from the road'. Here you can read her articles.
Dazzled by Dubai - 18 July
2004
When I recieved the invitation to visit Dubai, my first question was one of
naivete: Where is it? Can you really blame me? I am just a city girl. Ask me
where Chelsea Piers is, I can tell you. Ask me where the Cloisters are, I can
tell you. But Dubai? That's a whole 'nother ball game.
After doing some investigation on my own, I determined the Dubai is a city of
fortune and business in the United Arab Emirates-a small Middle Eastern country
just across the Persian Gulf from Iraq, yet untouched by the wreckage and despair
of war. I had only been painted a one-sided picture of the Middle East. But
since I am a rebel at heart, as all city girls are, I accepted the invitation
and off I went.
Getting there wasn't easy. My band and I took a seven-hour flight from New York
to London and then, after a two-hour layover, we took another seven hour flight.
When we finally arrived at Dubai International Airport, we found ourselves in
one the most beautiful airports I've ever passes through. Mahogany and shiny
silver accents everywhere. Big stairs and elevators built as if they had a prince
in mind, Everything was just so. Immediately, I felt a difference - a certain
respect for custom, for presentation and hospitality. We took about a 30-minute
drive to the Shangri-La Hotel. Driving through the night, I couldnt see any
landscape, but arriving at the hotel sure gave me a sense of the investment
made in the hotel industry. Awaiting us were a welcoming committee and at least
five secuirty men, I got out of the car feeling completely underdressed in my
jeans and hat pulled low over my eyes.
They were nothing but gracious and led me up to my suite, which occupied the
entire top floor of the hotel across from a small gym, pool and sunbathing area.
When they opened the doors to my suite for the first time, the vision was breathtaking.
A 2-floor palatial beauty straight out of the pages of the best architectural
design magazine. There were marble floors, silver accents, and large, floor-to
cieling, dark wood doors covered with rich brown leather and huge silver handles.
Massive windows were everywhere and from the living room to the dining room
was a long stretchof space you could do pirouettes across. I tried to put on
my best look of cool approval and not show too much goofy excitememnt, but it
was the most babulous place i'd ever seen! All this excitement and I hadnt even
left the hotel yet.
My favorite place in the whole suite, besides of course the Jacuzzi in my bathroom,
was the wrap-around patio that looked out upon a sea of lights. in the morning
would see that it was an oasis-75% of all the buildings were still under construction.
From the terrace, more than one of our guides during our stay pointed out the
location where they were building the tallest building in the world. I gazed
down on the beginnings of that structure and felt their excitement and pride
in their city.
Luckily, I'd come to Dubai with a few days to spare before my gig and I made
sure I had enough time to explore. The beach was my first destination, as I
am a mermaid at heart. The water was a clear, bluish-green and shallow 80 degrees.
I just sat in the middle of it and felt the warmth and I mean warmth. It was
heaven!
I noticed they offered water-skiing and this seemed like the perfect opportunity
to try something new. The gentleman who took us out was a young, strong, light-skinned
man from Africa. He told us he was a surfer and that the only thing he missed
in Dubai was the waves. Our instructor took us far out on a boat to different
sets of islands and a big deep area of the ocean so we could try water-skiing.
Let me just say you're definitely gonna fall at least twice - but it's so much
fun to be a fool.
We had other adventures as well. We went dune-bashing in the desert (which puts
roller coasters to shame), and then camel-riding, which was quite an experience.
The camels were tethered together and knelt down on command as we crawled on.
We held on for dear life as we were led around a large circle.
Then we had a traditional Middle Eastern dinner under the stars (the best falafel
on the planet), had beautiful designs drawn on our skin with henna (much better
than tattoos, especially for the ladies), listened to live traditional music
and enjoyed a belly dancer (yes, I tried it!). It was a night I will never forget.
I left Dubai feeling the intrigue that the creators of "Aladdin" must
have felt - a place rich in tradition and history, kindness and magic. I felt
like there was so much goodness to discover in a world that is mostly painted
for Westerners as just the enemy (but that's a whole different column). Mostly
I felt proud that I wasn't too afraid to try something new. Like every city
girl should!
The Magic of France - 01 August 2004
Every time I've heard about France, it's always about the 'magic of Paris.'
I have spent hours and hours trying to identify that magic, thinking it was
something that i would discover just by being there, but it is more that that.
And although Paris is beautiful, magical city, France is not defined solely
by a city itself: Paris, Lyon, Nice. It's something more.
The magic of France was first revealed to me in a seemingly ordinary thing called
the French accent. I had only seen France out of hotel windows or from a moving
car, so it was the accent that I could connect to most. I can't deny it: it
is the most sensual accent in the world and it was the sound of spoken French
that made the country so dazzling to me. Hearing an English question translated
into français allowed me to understand how language can be a song: The
way the French are so attentive to detail; the way they are drenched in sophistication,
style, grace and glamour; the way they serve small chopped-up black olives that
look like caviar but taste even better while asking you what your aperitif will
be is endearing. The way the z's blend and the r's roll over so slightly made
me imagine all kinds of mystical words being whispered in my ear on a hot summer
evening's stroll, while my mind ran wild with tantalizing thought about what
a night with a sophisticated Frenchman could hold.
A PERSONAL JOURNEY
Since then, I've discovered that the legendary romance that's become synonymous
with France is not atop the Eiffel Tower or in the bakeries filled with hot
baguettes, inside le Louvre or on a stroll down the Champs-Elysees.
It isn't in the sidewalk cafes that serve cafe au laits or even the marinas
with their bobbing yachts framed by the ocean's easy waters or the archaic structures
recalling Old World culture. It isn't at the ballet or in the secret village
of Eze, where the streets are made of ancient stone dating back to 500 B.C.,
neither is it in the depths of the Mediterranean Sea that feels like satin when
you swim in it.
Wait, who am I kidding? That is the magic of France - all of it. I realized
that the reason I couldn't find the magic before was because I was only looking
for it in one place.
I couldn't find it going from one box to another. I couldn't find it on a 10-minute
break from an interview. And I'd NEVER find it after a long show on a long bus
ride to the next city.
All this time it's been right there in front of me, just waiting for me to be
open enough (and have enough time) to walk through its wonder and feel it. The
elusive magic that I've finally found is in the personal experience of France-and
each person's is different. It's in the discovery. The silent moments in places
you've only heard about. It's in the special words of the people you find there.
The way their lips move and the way a soft French voice can mesmerize your ears
and your heart. All of these are the romance of France. It's not just down one
particular street. It cannot be contained in one tiny place. And somewhere between
"Bonjour" and "Bonne nuit" lies the unknown mystery of all
there is to find. It is all the magic you could ever hope to discover. It is
everywhere!
Free Spirit - 29 August 2004
Spain is one of those places that just feels good. The language alone can make
you feel like you've arrived in the most exotic place on Earth. The people's
spirits are free - they will sleep in tents on the beach, or with just the stars
as their roof. They will go topless or nude on the beach and see it as liberating,
not embarrassing. When they love you, it's loyally and whole-heartedly.
I first fell in love with Spain in Madrid, after being invited to a special
place known as "cave". There, I was introduced to the passionate world
of flamenco. The guitars' melodies and rhythms were intertwined in a way I'd
never before experienced. Hands clapped - off-again, on-again - with syncopations
that left me bewildered. The flamenco voice dug into my soul like a knife dripping
with blood from a crime of passion. And the dancing - wow! I've never seen men
dancing so honestly and sensually in my life.
That was my introduction to Spain, and I thought it couldn't get any better.
Then we arrived in Barcelona. One of the first things I noticed was the way
they say my name - it's a complete turn-on. Some locals pronounce the "c"
in Alicia like "th". Barcelona sounds like "Barthilona"
and Alicia becomes "Alithia". I don't know if that will translate
as beautifully on paper as it does in real life, but I will come to Spain for
the rest of my life just to hear them say my name.
Another thing I fell in love with in Barcelona was the constant feeling that
everything was absolutely perfect. The sun is blinding and warms you deeply;
the water is transparent and shines with the sun's reflection. The beach has
the kind of soft sand that's so good for running barefoot in. The architecture
is grand and historic. And it's all there like a playground waitin to be explored.
A world in a village
I performed in a village, actually a town square built between 1926 and 1929,
called "Poble Espanyol". There, in just a couple of hours, it is possible
to visit a living watercolor of the 17 nationalities and regions that make up
one of the most fascinating countries of the European Union, through handicraft
markets, cultural displays, samples of food and folk shows. When we walked in,
it looked like a montage of many wonderlands. It was beautiful and very different
from anything I'd ever seen or anywhere I'd ever performed. The stage was set
in the middle of a wide, open space outlined by eclectic shops. I looked out
onto little apartments with beautifully carved wood windows and doors that opened
up toward the stage. Around the square were cobblestone streets leading to stone
steps that took you to these special shops and people. It felt like a place
forgotten by time - in a sense, it was like a fairy tale. At that moment, I
knew it was going to be a special show. There's nothing like performing outside,
with the air all around you. You feel so much more open to the possibilities,
and that's exactly what Barcelona is - open and exciting, a place where anything
is possible.
After an incredible show that made me want to stay on stage all night, I met
a friend I'd known when we were young girls in America who had since moved to
Spain. She and her friends looked so content and bright that I actually found
myself wondering if I could live here, leave New York behind and settle into
a life of freedom from stress and cold winters, a place of new discoveries.
Leave the rat race and the fast pace behind... Before we left, I took some time
to say goodbye to the beach. It was about 1:30 a.m. and the water was calm and
the beach was still except for a few people playing guitar to the moon and some
lovers staring intently into each other's eyes, excited at the possibility of
lying together in the open air that whispered a song. I looked around and remembered
one more time the reason why I love Barcelona so. I love the freedom I feel
from the people there, the carefree lifestyle, oblivion almost - it made me
relax under the night sky and smile. But not enough to leave New York.
Why we ought to travel even
more after 9/11 - 12 September 2004
On that particular day, like any girl who was up too late in the city the night
before, I was
curled up in a tangle of sheets trying my damnedest to pull myself out of bed.
It was about 9 a.m. and I had been going strong over the last couple of months,
so I was tired.
I remember the phone was ringing, that annoying kind of ring, constant and steady
and persistent! I knew I had to get out of bed, and I figured it was a wakeup
call to double-check I hadn't overslept. I put my feet on the ground and groggily
made my way to the living room. The phone kept ringing, but I wasn't ready to
speak yet. Instead I turned on the TV for some background noise as I was trying
to get myself together. Who won't stop calling? And why?! I sat down on the
couch.
The news was everywhere. The planes.
The towers.
The flames.
I know I don't need to say more, especially to a New Yorker.
I watched in confusion. Stunned, my eyes filling with a pool of helpless tears.
Why?! I couldn't fully register the impact of that moment. Did any of us? I
just knew I wasn't going anywhere that day. None of us was.
I don't want to go into too much more detail about the actual day or days that
followed. The panic, the fury, the beginning of a new world as we know it in
many ways. I think we have all gone over it a million times, in a million different
ways. We still do.
We always will. All of us, all around the world, experienced that day in a way
that will never be erased. Ever! Possibly, it has never been clearer that we
were all living through history. I remember feeling vividly closer to understanding
the way that life is for people everywhere else, in those far-away places we
are told to feel so threatened by.
Blown to dust. Disheveled. Ruined. Destroyed.
That was New York three years ago.
Watching New York unite was one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen.
I've lived here my whole life and have always witnessed the dog-eat-dog mentality,
the rat race. Even been a part of it. Who hasn't?
I mean, that's part of the thrill, the driving force of New York City. It's
part of what makes us completely different from anywhere else in the world.
No one seems to be more determined or more focused than New Yorkers. Nobody
cares about the glory of success as much as we do. So watching us put that pride
to the side and show compassion and sensitivity, sharing tears and memories,
making promises of living life more completely was like suddenly, we got it.
What we all share
Traveling the world now, I notice that the places I visit have people with the
same faces as me, the same broken hearts over the state of the world, the same
hope that we will look past our physical differences and see the power in our
unity. I love traveling even more now, because I feel like I can see with my
own eyes what's really going on.
I feel like more than ever, we aren't so damn different. In fact, we are all
very much the same. We are all just people trying to find our way out here,
looking to find freedom in its many different forms.
But what about now?
We can't just sit back and let history happen to us and not be a part of changing
it. It's important that we learn more and question more, that we become more
actively involved in our lives, more than just day-to-day work, food and fun
and the bubbles of selfishness that we call life. We need to care about a different
kind of race the human race.
To me, that's what the anniversary of 9/11 means. The numbers represent the
emergency, the urgency. One of its effects, I believe, was to make us alert,
aware, to wake us up! All of us! From the Middle East to the Mediterranean,
from Africa to New York.
We're awake now. So, what are we going to do about it?
Contrary to popular belief, I feel now it's even more important to continue
to travel. Go where you've never been before. Visit the world to see the way
different people live, what they think and believe, so we can draw our own conclusions
and become closer as a human race. If we stay where it's "safe," we'll
fall for what anyone tells us to. I may be a dreamer, but I believe in us. I
don't care what anyone wants me to think, I know now more than ever, we need
each other and if we stay together, I have faith in what the future will bring.
Jazzed up on Montreux - 3
October 2004
The
Montreux Jazz Festival in Switzerland, ahh... what an experience!
Going to Switzerland was a nice change because the sun was there to welcome
us. (For some reason, no matter what time of year it is, there are certain parts
of Europe that always seem to be freezing cold.) The way the mountains and water
met each other all along the street was so much like a painting it was
beautiful. The streets were electric with people excited about the festivities.
And me, I was just hanging out of my window entranced, thinking about how many
incredible people and artists had been here before me. As I gazed out onto the
streets, I wondered how people must have looked and dressed and seemed to somebody
like Miles Davis when he played here.
We were invited up to the house (or chateau, as it is known here) of Claude
Nobs, who founded the festival in 1967. He lives in the mountains and, if the
view was incredible from my hotel room down below, I can't even begin to explain
the view from up above.
The mountains were immense. The sun was so warm, and every single chair and
hammock was turned to face the vast view, forcing you to reflect as you looked
out onto the water and hills. Everywhere you turned looked like a painting,
as if you were merely a vision by an artist from above. (Which we are, but you
really felt it here!) It made me see how differently you can view life, depending
on how you live it. Up there, I felt the beauty of the world and the way it
can clear your mind. That's only some of the point, the rest is what it left
me feeling . . . I don't know, let me try to explain.
Mr. Nobs has an unbelievable archive of all the people who have ever performed
at the Montreux Jazz Festival. It's incredible! For every person that has ever
graced the stage, from Miles Davis to Marvin Gaye, Aretha Franklin and Ray Charles
to Nina Simone (and that's just to name a few), he has historic footage that
you will never see anywhere else. He played us Aretha Franklin's 1971 performance,
and it was one of the most incredible things I've ever seen. She had to be about
23 years old. She was a baby, and singing and playing the piano with all her
heart. You felt her spirit leap off the screen into your lap.
Spirit of '76
But for me, the most amazing performance was Nina Simone's in 1976. She had
just come back from Africa, and you could feel her anger and intense feelings
about the way musicians, especially black musicians, were treated. She obviously
felt ambivalence about the way people in general were treated during that time
and all that was going on in America. You could tell she felt as if she didn't
really belong anywhere. But her playing . . . oh, my goodness, her playing!
She played the piano as if her life depended on it. Her fluidity was incredible.
Her expression was genuine and real and deep, and it was something that ripped
through my whole core! I couldn't catch my breath. All the times I wished I
could have seen some of my favorite artists who are no longer here, to see the
way they did it, what their approach was that day, I was looking directly
at it. I was mesmerized and inspired beyond belief.
It got me thinking about artists back then, how serious they were about their
craft. How artists like Nina Simone, James Baldwin and Langston Hughes thought.
They had things to say and opinions about what was going on around them, about
things that others were afraid to discuss. They embraced the challenge and said
what the people were thinking but never had the voice to express. They were
the leaders of a generation that needed to be heard. They were unafraid and
unfazed by fame or money, caring only for the message and standing their ground,
creating their own freedom.
The quest within
Switzerland that day was like a revelation to me. It affected me in such a deep
way. It made me want to be remembered for things like that. Important things.
I am still finding my way like we all are, but I want to search deeper and be
remembered for being different, for being unafraid to be vocal and active. For
being strong and standing for something that endures. I went back to my hotel
and played my piano like I never had before!
In Montreux, I experienced a whole new world, a historic world I'll never forget,
and, in my own way, I can now say I'm a part of. Of all the places I've been,
it is one of the most beautiful. The painting that is Switzerland is glorious
what a world to discover.
Next year's Montreux Jazz Festival runs from July 1-16. For more information,
log on to www.montreuxjazz.com.